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make a wood frame wall panel

Let’s start with a simple wall, without door or window openings. We can get to the more difficult panels later.

The standard height of a panel is 2,453 meters. This is a standard ceiling height for most homes. It also easily accommodates sheetrock and plywood/OSB.

A wall is made up of beams with dimensions of 38mm deep and 140mm wide and come in a variety of lengths, ranging from 2.1 and then rising in 300mm increments up to 5.4m long. For the sake of this example, we will use 4.8m lengths of CLS C16 grade lumber.

The wall we want to do is in the front of the house, therefore there are no windows or doors. The pediment wall is actually 9.5m, but we need to break it down into a more manageable size. We took the 9.5m wall and divided it by two to end up with two 4.75m long walls. This is much easier to deal with.

Divide 4.75 by 0.4 (the centers of the vertical posts) to get 11.87. Round the number to 11, and then add 2 to increase the number of studs to 13. You now know how many studs are in the panel.

You may recall that the standard height for a wall panel is 2.453. It is made up of the vertical studs plus a double sole plate and a double head plate.

All that means is that on the ground you place two 4.75m long pieces of wood that you attach the bottom of the studs to and then put two 4.75m long pieces of wood on top of the wall panel. You can use two 90mm paslode nails shot with a nail gun or two 100mm galvanized wire nails with a hammer.

Now you need to figure out what size to cut them.

So, if we have two numbers of studs of dimensions 38 x 140mm at the top and bottom of the wall, all we have to do is subtract 152mm from the total wall height to get our upright size. , which is 2301 m.

Cut 13 studs 2.301 µm long making sure your cuts are plumb. It is very important to get the correct length and plumb cut to ensure a good fit.

Clear a space on the floor and place two pieces of wood along the floor. These will be used to make your panel lit. Keeping the panel ends off the ground makes it easier to attach the top and bottom plates to the uprights.

You can now begin nailing the panel keeping the edge of the studs flush with the top of the baseboard and headerboard. Attach the top and bottom of each stud with two numbered nails, either 90mm paslode nails fired with a nail gun or 100mm galvanized wire nails if you are using a hammer. Make sure the studs are not crooked in the frame and are plumb from the top of the wall to the bottom.

Proceed along the panel fixing the studs on 400mm centres. This just means leaving a distance of 400mm from the center of one stud to the next.

You can also use the beam edge and just go from one edge to the other. Continue until you have nailed all of the uprights to the top and bottom plates.

You can now add sheets of plywood or OSB to reinforce the frame. It is best to do this at this stage before lifting the panel, as the job will go faster when fixing the sheets to the frame when it is on the ground.

Attach plywood or OSB to each upright on 150mm centers and around the perimeter of each sheet on 75mm centers. (An engineer will help you in this area by doing math to give you an accurate figure you can track.)

Just keep in mind that the panel can be very heavy, so make sure you have an extra set of hands or mechanical lifting equipment to help you out.

But if you’re short on helping hands, you can leave this on until the panel is fully attached and braced.

Here he has produced his first wood-framed wall panel. Congratulations.

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